Sometimes people ask why I like to watch surf movies. I think there isn´t an answer to that. At least an answer that goes deeper than the superficial layers of words. The emotions involved rather belong to the realm of pure contemplation. It is an experience that allows the viewer a respite from the strife of desire, and feel a kind of purely mental enjoyment. But, while I was reflecting on this topic from the point of view of a spectator, a quick search on the internet gave me a similar opinion, but from the angle of Jonathan Paskowitz
“For me personally, words cannot describe the euphoria that surfing provides as a human. Words cannot describe the absolutely magical and romantic feeling of riding a wave, going up and down on the surface of the water and feeling, just an unlimited power under your feet and to be in harmony with the ocean; perhaps riding along and seeing a dolphin in the face of the wave next to you, or a beautiful rainbow as the spray of the wind is offshore pluming over the back of the wave. It’s just the most beautiful, romantic, organic thing I think a human can do”.