The innermost limits of pure fun (1969)

1968 was a very important year in surf history. Until that epoch most surfers used to surf with longboards. These kind of boards were slower and easier to handle. That is the iconic image we nowadays have of surf in its beginnings: the typical beachboy driving a cadillac with a foam longboard by his side. But surfculture was about to change. George Greenough, Robert "Nat" Young and Bob McTavish, two american surfers and an australian sharper realized that the popularity of surf was stagnating and soon looked for a solution.

A couple of years of years before, during the World contest in San Diego, Young tried to compete with a shorter version of the common 9´6´´ board because he had no money to afford the longer version. So, Young approached shaper McTavish and asked if he could come up with a solution to his problem. McTavish had already some ideas about shaping a board far thinner then every other boards, but it was only when he met with kneeboarder Greenough, in Noosa Heads, that both finally came up with something. The shortboard was born.

The innermost limits of pure fun, made in 1969, only one year after the reinvention of the surfboard, is one of the first surf movies from that revolutionary period in surfing. What today is a piece of nostalgia, back in its time was an innnovative film, featuring point of view cameras and other technical novelties. The amateurish making, the groovy soundtrack and the opportunity it gives us to witness surf history make it a pleasant experience. What could be better than watch the birth of the shortboard from the highly personalized perspective of its inventors?

Verdict: 7/10

Gum for my boat (2009)

Welcome to Bangladesh. It is one of the poorest, overpopulated and inefficiently-governed nations in Asia. Many of the direct victims of the social inequality that pervades in the country are street children. But, although the future seems rather grim for these kids, there are people that continue fighting to change things and to bring a spark of joy to their lifes.

Cox Bazar, a fishing town in southern Bangladesh, was chosen back in 2001 by the NGO SSurf the Nations to receive a full aid program that included not only social and medical assistance but also the founding of a local surf club. As the Bangladesh Surf Club started its activity ( with over 35 surfboards and bodyboards donated) it became an instant success. Presently there are over 70 members, boys and girls that share their love for the sport.b And, how the members of Surfing the Nations like to stress after eight years of working for the community "the members of the surf club, are no longer categorized as ´the street kids` or ´the uneducated`, they are now recognized as surfers. With this new founded identity, a community of young men and woman are working together to serve their city. Participating in large beach cleanups, teaching ocean safety, swimming lessons and of course surfing; they have enthusiastically embraced the motto of Surfing The Nations - surfers giving back".

What you get in Gum for my Boat, is a rigorous account of the events that changed the poor community. The documentary results in a well-filmed movie, greatly edited and filled with equal moments of sadness and hapiness at the same time. The redemptive power of surfing in a depressed community makes it a movie hard to forget for a long time. I think I have something in my eye now...

Verdict: 7/10

Website of the movie: http://www.gumformyboat.com/

Got a question here...

Should I rate the movies I write about? What type of rating system should I use? What´s your opinion on this subject?

Kelly Slater in Black and White (1991)

Facts are facts: 10 world titles and 46 WTC wins. Ladies and Gentleman: Kelly Slater. Not only arguably the best competition surfer of all time but also the only one that made the breakthrough into american mainstream culture, achieving something like a rock star celebrity status. However, Kelly´s success didn´t came out of the blue. Kelly allied from the beginning of his career talent and consistency in his performances taking many of them to absolute perfection.

In the early nineties, when "Kelly Slater in Black and White" was being filmed, his career was already booming: world champion at the tender age of twenty. All the traits of his surf style were already there. You see a young Slater (with lots of hair back then) clean-cutting Lowers´s waves like no other.

The final result is nothing special. The film is basically a collection of surf clips and interviews that in some cases are quite dull. The music is mostly made by Seattle bands from the nineties, such as Mother Love Bone and others. In short, the very importance of this movie is as an historical document that shows of the dawn of a legend in surfing. Just that makes it a solid recommendation for everyone who enjoys to watch surf history as it happened.

Next watch a video where Kelly talks about the movie.

A pleasant surprise (2009)

Well, the titles sums it all up really. Who would expect that one of the best surf movies of the last decade would come straight out of New Jersey? With this flick the garden state surfing community has definitely conquered its place and respect.

The film follows day by day the fast growing surf scene in N.J. Surfing in the east is much harder than many would imagine: thumping beach breaks, cold water and quick tropical storms are just a tiny fraction of what many endure to make what they truly love to do in those meloncolic beaches.

Beautifully filmed in 16 mm, the duo of directors Nick Zegel and Kyle Pahlow made an astonishing peace of art. After all, it is the culmination of three years of footage and standing interaction with the locals. The account you get is both realistic and entertaining.

The movie completes its uniqueness with an ecletic set of music bands: Yeasayer, Mondoggies, The Rubies, Here we go Magic and many others.

Here you can find an interesting interview with the directors.

Check out on http://www.apleasantsurprisefilm.com/ for more.

Riding giants (2004)

Big wave riders will always have a special place among the community. When the smallest waves are 20 feet high everything is being taken to a whole new level. Not only the hazards involved are life threatening but also the challenge becomes too unbearable for even the most of the world´s skilled surfers.

When Z-Boy Stacy Peralta decided to start the project of making a movie about the world´s best town inners everyone knew it was going to be in good hands. After all Stacey helped to define surf culture as we know it today. Riding Giants is the first film Stacy did after the resounding success of "Dogtown and Z boys", which was the account of his own youth as part of the legendary zephyr skateboard team.

Riding giants remains the best movie on the subject we can find. It is an accurate historical overview over the beginnings of giant waves riding from the beaches of hawaii to the coast of California. It helps us understand how legendary waves such as Teahupoo,Cyclops, Pipeline or Mavericks together with names like Greg Noll, Jeff Clark or Mickey Munoz became more and more ingrained in surf mythology. Unmissable.